Beta flash
Leading a climb with no falling or
dogging,
but with a piece of previous
knowledge hints on how to do those crux
moves.
Even seeing someone do
the climb already classifies as
'previous
knowledge'.
(d) Flash mit Ansage, (f) Flash
Big wall
Rock climb that is so long and
sustained that
a normal ascent lasts several
days.
(d) Big Wall, (f) Voie longue, (f-c)
Grand
mur, (e) Gran Pared, (s)
Storöägg / Bigwall
Biner
Short for Karabiner
(d) Kara, (f) Mousquif, (e) Mosquete /
Mosquetón,
(s) Karbin
Birdbeak
A tiny hooked piton manufactured by A5.
It
is similar to the old Chouinard
"Crack'n up", except that it only has a
single
side and that it is intended to
be hammered in if necessary.
Bivouac
Or short, bivi. An uncomfortable
sleeping
place in the middle of a route.
(d) Biwak, (f) Bivouac, (nl) Bivak, (i)
Bivacco,
(e) Bivac, (s) Bivack, (pl)
Biwak
Black ice
Old ice that was exposed to extremely
cold
temperatures, scree, and
snowfall. Usually found deep in shady
couloirs,
or on steep north faces.
Very hard and dense ice that is
difficult
to climb.
Blast, to
To begin a big wall, after the line
fixing
is done. "We're gonna blast on
Tuesday morning after we get the first
three
pitches fixed".
Bleauser
French term. Going to boulder at 'Bleau
(short
for Fontainebleau, the site
of some excellent bouldering near
Paris)
Blue ice
Very dense ice with a watery hue and
few air
bubbles.
Bolt
(d) Haken, (f) Spit, (i) Spit, (e)
Spits/Bolt,
(s) Bult, (pl) Spit
Bolt, expansion
(d) Bohrhaken, (f) Cheville à
expansion,
(nl) Boorhaak, (i) Caviglie da
espansione, (e) Piton de expansion,
parabolt,
(s) Borrbult
Bomber
Used to indicate that something is
exceptionally
solid, e.g. an anchor, a
hold. See also bombproof.
(e) Firme, (s) Kanon
Bombproof
The illusion that an anchor is
infallible
(d) Bomben sicher, (f) béton (i) A
prova di bomba, (e) A prueba de
bomba, (s) Bombsäker
Bong
An almost extinct species of extra wide
pitons.
Now, large chocks are
usually used instead.
(f) "Bonne Grimpe !"
A greeting to climbers when they start
the
climb.
(e) "¡Buena suerte!"
Boulder, to
Climbing unroped on boulders or at the
foot
of climbs to a height where it
is still safe to jump off.
(d) Bouldern (f) Faire du bloc, (nl)
Boulderen,
(i) Arrampicare su masso,
(e) Boulder / Cascarear
Bounce
To crater from an extreme height.
Usually
lethal.
(d) Todessturz
Bowline
Sailing knot (not to be used for
climbing,
unless backed up with a second
knot)
(d) Bulinknoten/Palstek, (f) Noeud de
chaise,
(nl) Paalsteek, (i) (Nodo)
bulino, (e) Bulín, (s) Pålstek
Brain bucket
Aka helmet. That all important hard
shelled
thing that covers our
(second?) most valuable asset.
Bucket
A large hold (Aka "jug", esp. in UK)
(d) Henkel, (f) Bac/baquet, (nl) bak,
(i)
Fibbia / Vasca, (e) Asa / gasa, (s)
Brevlåda
Buildering
To climb buildings
(d) Fassadenklettern, (f-c) Escalade de
ville,
(nl) Geveltoerisme, (e)
Escalada urbana, (s) Fasadklättring
Butterfly knot
Interesting but rarely used climbing
knot.
(f-c) Noeud papillon / les oreilles du
Micky
??, (e) Nudo de mariposa
Buttress
The part of the mountain or rock that
stands
in front of the main
mountainface.
(d) Vorbau / Pfeiler, (f) Pillier, (i)
Pilastro,
(e) Espolón, (s) Pelare
Cam
Generic reference to the family of
spring
loaded camming devices
(SLCD) such as friends, camalots,
aliens,
TCUs, etc. Also refered to as
springs
(e) Levas
Campus
A dyno executed using the arms only.
Comes
from the campus board
where the people who do this move get
the
muscle to do it.
(d) Frei hängend
Campus board
A wooden training board with finger
ledges
that is used for training dynos
and finger power.
(d) Hangelbrett, (f) Planche
d'entraînement,
(e) Tabla de entrenamiento
Cat, dead
Contact Greg Opland for this one...
(d) Tote Katze, (f) Chat mort, (nl)
Dode kat,
(i) Gatto morte, (lat) Felis
oplandis, (s) Död katt, (pl) Zdechly
kot
Chalk
Magic powder that makes the hands stick
to
even the smoothest rock.
(d) Chalk/Magnesia, (f) Magnésie, (nl)
Magnesiumpoeder, (i) Magnesia,
(e) Magnesio, (s) Krita, (pl) Magnezja
Cheese grater, to
To slide down a slab while scraping the knees, hands, and face.
Chest harness
Bra-like looking harness (to be used
with
waist harness)
(d) Brustklettergurt, (f) Harnais, (nl)
Borstgordel,
(i) Cinghia pettorale, (e)
Arnés de pecho, (s) Bröstsele,
(pl) upzraz piersiowa
Chickenhead
Sometimes phallic shaped, protruding
lumps
that make excellent hand or
footholds on granite, etc.
(d) Zacke / Felsköpfel, (f-c) Banane,
(e) Chile / cuerno
Chimney
A wide crack that accomodates (most of)
the
body of the climber.
(d)Kamin, (f) Cheminée, (nl)
Schoorsteen,
(i) Camino, (e) Chimenea, (s)
Kamin, (pl) Komin
Chimney, to
A climbing technique used to conquer
chimneys.
Usually requires the use
of the back and feet, arms, head and
other
body parts.
Chipped hold
A hold created with a hamer and chisel
by
a moron uncapable of doing the
climb as it is.
(d) Geschlagener Griff, (f) Prise
taillée,
(i) Presa scavata, (s) Chippade
grepp
Chock
Generic reference to the family of
passive
wired protection devices, also
called nuts, stoppers, wires, and
rocks.
(e) Nueces
Chockstone
A stone wedged between a crack, a
chimney,
etc.
(s) Kilsten
Chute
A very steep gully. The word chute is
french
for fall and refers to the
rockfall that is very common in a
chute.
Class
A number designating the overal
technical
level of a route. The first
number in the YDS designates the class
of
the climb. Here's the different
classes...
(e) Clase
Clean
Climbing without falling or dogging.
(f) Enchaicirc;ner (une voie), (e)
Escalada
limpia
Clean
Aid climbing without hammering.
(e) Limpiar
Clean, to
To remove the pro from a route. Usually
done
by the follower.
(d) Abbauen / Ausraümen, (pl) Czyste
Cliff
A vertical piece of rock good for
climbing
(see also Crag).
(d) Fels, (f) Falaise, (nl) Rots, (i)
Falesia,
(e) Risco, (s) Klippa, (pl) Skala
Cliffhanger
Not just a silly film with Wolfgang
Güllich
and Ron Kauk, but also the
name for a small hooking device used to
aid
climb up small ledges and
pockets.
Climb, to
(d) Klettern, (f) Grimper, (nl)
Klimmen, (i)
Arrampicare/scalare, (e)
Escalar, (s) Klättra, (pl) Wspinac sie
Climb, a
(d) Kletterei, (f) Escalade, (nl) Klim,
(i)
Arrampicata , (e) Escalada, (s)
Led/Tur
"Climbing"
What the climber shouts after the
belayer
screams "Belay on".
(d) "Komme", (f) "Parti", (nl) "Ik
kom", (i)
"parto"/"vengo", (e) "Voy", (s)
"Jag klättrar", (pl) "Ide"
Climbing gym
The second best thing to real rock (Aka
"wall"
in the UK).
(d) Kletterhalle, (f) Mur d'escalade /
Salle
d'escalade, (nl)
Klimzaal/Klimhal, (i) Palestra, (e)
Muro artificial
de escalada, (s)
Inomhusvägg
Climbing shoes
Shoes made of sticky rubber that would
have
fit you comfortable when
you were ten.
(d) Kletterschuhe, (f) Chaussons
d'escalade,
(nl) Klimschoenen, (i) Scarpe
da roccia / scarpette / pedule, (e)
Botas
de escala / tenis de escalada,
(e-argentina) pedulas / zapatillas de
escalada,
(s) Klätterskor, (pl) Pantofle
/ buty wspinaczkowe
"Climb when ready"
The British equivalent of "Belay on".
(e) "Cuando estés listo", (e-argentina)
"veni"
Clip, to
The reassuring action of putting the
rope
through a karabiner (that is
attached to a piece of pro).
(d) Einhängen, (f) Mousquetonner, (pl)
wpiac sie
Clove hitch
A useful, easily adjustable climbing
knot
usually used to tie the rope into a
karibiner.
(d) Mastwurf, (f) Noeud de cabestan,
(i) Nodo
barcaiolo, (e) Cola de
cochino, (s) Dubbelt halvslag
Col
A steep, high mountain pass.
(f) Col
Cord
Thin static rope (5, 5.5 or 6 mm)
(d) Reepschnur, (f) Cordelette, (nl)
Prusiktouw,
(i) Cordino, (e) Cordino /
cordeleta, (s) Repsnöre
Corner
Inside corner (see dihedral) or outside
corner.
(f) Diedre, (i) Diedro, (e) Esquina,
(s) Hörn
Corn snow
Unconsolidated granular snow that has
gone
through a short
freeze-and-thaw process. This type of
snow
is prevalent throughout the
High Sierra in April and May.
Couloir
A steep gully which may have snow or
ice.
(f) Couloir
Crack, in rock
A gap or fissure in the rock varying in
width
from nail to bodywidth.
(d) Riß, (f) Fissure, (nl)
(Rots)-spleet,
(i) Fessura, (e) Grieta, (s) Spricka,
(pl) Rysa
Crag
Name for a (small) climbing area.
(d) Klettergarten, (f) Falaise, (i)
Falesia,
(s) Klippa, (pl) Skala
Crampons
Very pointy footware use to walk
glaciers
or climb ice.
(d) Steigeisen, (f) Crampons, (nl)
Stijgijzers,
(i) Ramponi, (e) Crampones,
(s) Stegjärn
Crank, to
To pull on a hold as hard as you can,
and
then some.
(d) Durchziehen
Crater, to
To fall and hit the ground, as in "I
almost
cratered".
(f) Se gaufrer/se vautrer/se
planter/dévisser,
(s) Kratra, (pl) glebowac
Crest
The very top of a ridge or arete.
Crevasse
A crack in the surface of a glacier.
(d) (Gletscher-)spalte, (f) Crevasse,
(nl)
(Gletscher-)spleet, (i) Crepaccio,
(e) Grieta, (s) Glaciärspricka, (pl)
szczelina
Crimper
A very small hold that accepts only the
finger
tips.
(d) Kratzer / Pinchi, (f) Gratton, (i)
Tacca,
(e) Grieta de dedos
Crux
The hard bit.
(d) Crux/Schlueßelstelle, (f) Le
pas/Crux,
(nl) Sleutelpassage, (i) Passo
chiave, (e) Paso clave, (s) Krux
Daisy chain
A sling sewn (or tied) with numerous
loops,
used as an adjustable sling in
aid climbing.
Deadpoint
A dynamic move where the next hold is
grabbed
at the dead point of the
move.
(d) Greifen im toten Punkt
Deck
The usually unfriendly surface that
wellcomes
you at the end of a
grounder.
Descender
Device used for rappeling.
(d) Abseiler, (f) Descendeur, (i)
Discensore,
(e) Descensor, (s)
Firningsbroms
Dihedral
Inside corner (Aka "open book").
(d)Verschneidung, (f) Dièdre, (nl)
Versnijding/hoek, (i) Diedro, (e) Diedro,
(s) (Inner-) hörn / Dieder
"Dirt me"
US slang which means as much as 'Lower
me'.
(d) "Ablassen" / "Nach"
Dog (to dog a move)
Climbing, lowering, climbing again till
a
certain move is made (the usual
mode of ascent...).
(d) Ausbouldern, (nl) Jo-jo
Double fisherman's knot
Solid knot used to tie two ropes or
pieces
of webbing together (Aka
grapevine knot).
(d) Doppelter Spierenstich, (f) Double
noeud
de pêcheur, (nl) Dubbele
visserssteek, (i) Nodo a contrasto
doppio/nodo
doppio inglese, (e) Nudo de
pescador doble, (s) Dubbel fiskarknop
Double rope
Same as a half rope. Also the technique
using
two half ropes.
(d) Doppelseil, (f) Corde à double,
(i) Corda doppia, (e) Cuerda doble, (s)
Dubbelrep
Downclimbing
Descending the difficult way.
(d) Abklettern, (f) Désescalader, (nl)
Afklimmen, (i) disarrampicare /
Arrampicare in discesa, (e) Destrepar /
Desescalar,
(s) Nedetklättring
Dude
Generic name for a climber (in the US).
Dynamic belay
A belay method in which some rope is
allowed
to slip during severe falls.
A dynamic belay can severely reduce the
impact
force from a serious fall,
but can also severely kill you if not
done
properly.
(d) Dynamische Sicherung, (f) Assurage
dynamique,
(i) Sicura dinamica /
assicurazione dinamica, (e) Seguro
dinámico,
(s) Dynamisk säkring
Dyno
Dynamic movement towards a distant
hold.
(d) Dynamo, (f) Jeté, (nl) Dynamo,
(i) Lancio, (e) Movimiento dinámico,
(s) Dynamiskt move
EB
The first sport climbing shoes
Edge
A sharp edge on a rock face.
(d) Kante, (f) Graton, (i) Spigolo /
lama,
(e) Orilla, (s) Kant, (pl) Kant
Edging
Foot technique where one uses the edge
of
the climbing shoe to stand on
small footholds. The opposite of
smearing.
(d) Kanten, (f) Gratonner, (e) cantear
Elvis, to
To have a sewing maching leg. Named
after
"Elvis, the King", who
suffered from this this problem when
singing
before a crowd of screaming
women.
(d) Nähmaschine, (e) motoneta, (pl)
telegrafowac
Epic
The story of a well planned climb that
turned
into a grueling adventure that
turned out well in the end. As these
stories
are told over and over again -
and they always are - the details get
stretched
to supernatural proportions
for dramatic effect.
(d) Eine Geschichte, (f) Epopée (e)
Historia épica
Etrier
(Pronounce with a french accent).
Webbing
ladder used for aid climbing.
Also known as 'aider'.
(d) Leiter, (f) Étrier, (nl) Ladder,
(i) Staffa, (e) Estribo, (s) Stegar
Face climbing
Not crack climbing.
(d) Wandklettern / Plattenklettern,
(nl) Wandklimmen,
(f) Grimper en
dalle, (i) Arrampicata su
parete/Arrampicata
in placca, (e) Escalada
exterior, (s) Väggklättring, (pl)
wspinaczka po plycie
Fall, to
A dynamic retreat from a climb
(free-solo
rappel). Note that it is never the
fall that kills, it's the landing.
(d) Stuerzen, (f) Prendre un plomb /
Voler
/ Tomber, (nl) Vallen, (i)
Cadere / Volare, (e) Caer / volar, (s)
Ramla,
Falla, (pl) odpasc
"Falling"
Yelled when a climber is (about to)
fall.
(d) "Ich stürze", (f) "Sec" (eqv. to
'up rope'), (nl) "Ik val", (i) "Volo", (e)
"Caigo"
Fall factor
The length of the fall divided by the
amount
of rope paid out.
(d) Sturzfaktor, (f) Facteur de chute,
(i)
Fattore di caduta, (e) Factor de
caída, (s) Fallfaktor
FecoFile
A PVC tube used to store solid human
waste
on big walls. Aka the Shit
Tube.
Fifi hook
An open hook used to allow easy
clipping during
aid climbing. Usually
found on aiders, daisy chains, etc.
(d) Fifihaken, (f) Crochet goutte d'eau
?,
(i) Gancio fiffi, (e) Fifí, (s)
Fiffikrok
Figure 8
Metal rappelling/belaying device shaped
like
an 8.
(d) Achter/Abseilachter, (f) Descendeur
en
huit (Huit), (nl) Acht, (i) L'otto
(il discensore), (e) Ocho, (s) Åtta,
(pl) Osemka
Figure of eight
Very popular and solid tie-in knot.
(d) Achtknoten, (f) Noeud en huit
(Huit),
(nl) Acht/achtknoop, (i) Nodo a
otto / Savoia inseguito, (e) Nudo de
ocho,
(s) Åttaknut, (pl) Osemka
Fingerlock
Masochistic technique to twist and
wedge the
fingers into a crack.
(d) Fingerklemmtechnik in Rissen, (f)
Verrou
(de doigt), (nl)
Vingerverklemming, (i) Incastro di
dita, (e)
Encuñadura de dedos, (s)
Fingerjam
Firn
Old, well consolidated snow. Often a
left-over
from the previous season.
Closer to ice than snow in density, it
may
require the use of crampons.
Fisherman
Simple knot to tie two ropes together.
The
double fisherman knot,
however, is more popular.
(d) Spierenstich, (f) Noeud de pêcheur,
(nl) Visserssteek, (i) Nodo a
contrasto semplice, (e) Pescador, (s)
Fiskarknop
Flash
To lead a climb with no falls or
dogging and
with no previous attempts on
the climb. Two variations exist: the
onsight
flash (where the climber has
never seen the climb before) and the
beta
flash (where the climber has
studied the climb before or has seen
someone
do the climb). See there.
(f) Enchaâner en tête
Flake
A thin bit of rock that is detached
from the
main face.
(d) Schuppe, (f) Écaille, (i) Scaglia,
(e) Laja, (s) flak, (pl) Pletwa
Flared
A crack or chimney with sides that are
not
parallel, but instead form two
converging planes of rock.
Following
Not leading a climb.
(d) Nachsteigen, (f) Grimper en second
/ Grimper
en moulinette, (nl)
Naklimmen, (i) Seguire (andare da
secondo),
(e) Segundear / escalar de
segundo, (s) Följa
Free climbing
Moving up a rock using only hands,
feet, and
natural holds. Ropes and pro
are only used for protection of the
climber
and not for progression.
(d) Frei klettern, (f) Escalade libre,
(nl)
Vrijklimmen, (i)
Scalata/arrampicata libera, (e)
Escalada libre,
(s) Friklättring
Free solo
Free climbing while using no ropes for
protection.
You fall - you die.
(d)Free solo klettern, (f) Solo, (nl)
Solo,
(i) Arrampicata in solitaria, (e)
Escalada solitaria / Superlibre, (s)
Frisolo
Friend
Trade name for the original camming
devices,
now also available as
Camalots, TCU's, Quads, Aliens, Big
Dudes,
etc.
Gate
The part of the karibiner that opens.
(d) Schnapper, (f) Doigt, (nl) Snapper,
(i)
Leva, (e) Pestillo, (e-argentina)
leva, (s) Grind
Glacier
A slowly moving permanent mass of ice.
(d) Gletscher, (f) Glacier, (nl)
Gletscher,
(i) Ghiacciaio, (e) Glaciar, (s)
Glaciär
"Got me?"
A wake up call for the belayer, used to
warn
her that you are about to
some weight on the rope.
Grade
A number denoting the seriousness of a
route
(not to be confused with the
rating of climb, which describes the
technical
difficulty). In Britain,
however, the word grade means both
grade and
rating. Look here for the
different grades...
(d) Ernsthaftigkeitsgrat, (f)
Engagement,
(e) Grado
Grease, to
Not being able to hold on to a
particularly
slick hold, due to the presence of
sweat, lactic acid or sand. Not
uncommon in
overused crags
Grounder
A fall where the kinetic energy is not
absorbed
by the rope and pro, but
rather by mother earth itself. Can hurt
badly.
(d) Bodensturz
Grigri
Nifty but somewhat controversial
belaying
device made by Petzl.
Gripped
Paralyzed with fear and utterly
confused.
Gully
A wide, shallow ravine on a
mountainside.
HACE
High Altitude Cerebral Edema. Liquid in
the
brain as a result of high
altitude exposure. Few people live to
tell
what it is like.
Half rope
A rope of 9 or 8.5 mm that has to be
used
together with a second rope
when leading a climb.
(d) Halbseil, (f) Corde de rappel, (nl)
Half
touw, (i) Mezza corda, (e)
Media cuerda, (s) Halvrep
Handjam
Slightly masochistic technique where
the hand
is wedged into a crack.
(d) Handklemmer, (f) Verrou (de main),
(nl)
Handklem, (i) Incastro di
mani, (e) Encuñadura de mano / -de
palmas, (e-argentina) Empotrar la
mano
Handle
Big banana-shaped hold often found in
indoor
gyms. Great for waving
hello to admiring bystanders. It may
sound
bizarre, but I've never seen one
of those outdoors...
(d) Henkel, (nl) Handvat
Hangdog, to
See Dog.
HAPE
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. Liquid
in the
lungs as a result of high
altitude exposure. Pretty serious
condition
that can quickly lead to HACE
if a descent to lower altitudes is not
made
immediately. See also HACE.
Harness
Piece of clothing that identifies you
as a
climber. The coolness factor can
be significantly enhanced by hanging
things
from the harness that go cling.
(d) Klettergurt, (f) Baudrier/Baudard,
(f-c)
Baudrier/Cuissard, (nl)
Klimgordel, (i) Imbragatura, (e) Arnés,
(s) Klättersele, (pl) Uprzaz
Haul bag
Large and robust bag used to haul food,
water,
climbing gear, sleeping bag,
television, satelite dish, and other
essential
equipment that is required, up a
big wall. Also know as "the pig".
(d) Materialsack / Nachziehsack, (f)
Sac,
(i) Sacco da recupero, (e)
Petate / Costal de escalada, (s)
Hissack
Headwall
Where the face of a mountain steepens
dramatically.
"Help"
The vocal alternative to 6 signals a
minute.
In far away countries, try
S.O.S. -- it doesn't mean anything but
is
understood by most.
(d) "Hilfe", (f) "Au secours", (nl)
"Help",
(i) "Aiuto", (e) socorro/ayuda, (s)
"Hjälp"
Helmet
Solid plastic device that can sometimes
protect
the head from falling
stones or impact (Aka a brainbucket).
(d) Helm, (f) Casque, (nl) Helm, (i)
Casco,
(e) Casco, (s) Hjälm
Hex
Short for Hexentrix. A type of nut with
an
excentric hexadiagonal shape.
Works for wedging (as a nut) but also
for
camming.
Hueco
A beautifully shaped pocket with a
positive
lip named after these
increabible features found at the Hueco
Tanks
bouldering area in Texas.
HMS
Karibiner with one wide side used for
belaying
with a munter hitch (aka
pearabiner). From the German term for
munter
hitch belay:
'Halbmastwurfsicherung'.
(d) HMS, (i) Moschettone a pera, (s)
HMS-knut
Hold
Anything that can be held on to.
(d) Griff, (f) Prise, (nl) Greep, (i)
Appiglio
/ Presa, (e) Presa / agarre,
(e-argentina) Toma, (s) Grepp, (pl)
Chwyt
Horn
Spike of rock that can be for a great
hold
or not so great protection. The
same as a chickenhead.
Hurtin unit
That member of the climbing team that
is suffering
from severe exposure
to alcoholic beverages the night
before.
Ice axe
Device used for ice climbing, glacier
crossing,
or scaring away burglars.
(d) Eispickel / Eisbeil, (f) Piolet,
(nl)
IJsbijl, (i) Piccozza, (e) Piolet, (s)
Isyxa
Ice screw
A protection device for ice climbing.
Looks
like a large bolt that can be
screwed in hard ice.
(d) Eisschraube, (f) Broche à glace,
(i) Vite da ghiaccio, (e) Tornillo para
hielo, (s) Isskruv
Italian hitch
Munter hitch knot or HMS knot
Jam, to
Wedging body parts in a crack.
(d) Klemmen, (f) Faire un verrou /
Faire un
coincement / Coincer, (i)
Incastrarsi, (e) Encuñar, (e-argentina)
Empotrar, (s) Jamma, (pl) Klinowac
Jug
Very large hold (short for jug handle)
(Aka
"bucket" in the US).
(d) Henkel / Kelle, (f) Poignée, (nl)
bak, (i) Vasca / Fibbia, (e-argentina)
Manija, (s) Brevlåda, (pl) Klama
Jugs
Big wall lingo for Jumars or any other
type
of ascenders.
Jug, to
To jumar up a line (big wall lingo).
Jumar
A type of rope ascending device.
Jumar, to
To ascend a rope using ascenders.
(d) Jumaren, (f) Monter au jumar, (e)
Jumarear,
(s) Jumarera
Karabiner
Metal connecting device (Aka "biner").
(d) Karabiner, (f) Mousqueton, (nl)
Karabiner/mousqueton,
(i)
Moschettone, (e) Mosquetón / Mosquete,
(s) Karbin / Karbinhake, (pl)
Karabinek
Kernmantle rope
Modern climbing rope consisting of
bundles
of continuous nylon filaments
(Kern) surrounded by a braided
protective
sheath (Mantle).
(d) Kernmantelseil
Knotted cord
Piece of cord with a knot tied into the
end
that is used for protection
(pretty much like a nut). The
traditional
method of protecting climbs, and
still used in the Elbsandsteingebirge
in Eastern
Germany.
(d) Knotenschlinge, (f) Corde nouée,
(i) Cordino annodato
Layback/Lieback
Somewhat clumsy looking climbing
technique
where hands and feet work
in opposition.
(d) Piazen/hangeln, (f)
Dulfer/opposition,
(i) Dulfer (Opposizione), (e)
Dülfer, (s) Layback
Leader
Person who leads a climb.
(d) Vorsteiger, (f) Premier (de
cordée),
(nl) Voorklimmer, (i) Primo, (e)
Primero / puntero, (s) Försteman, (pl)
Prowadzacy
Lead, to
To ascend a climb from the bottom up,
placing
protection (or clipping
protection) as you go.
(d) Vorsteigen, (f) Grimper en tête,
(nl) Voorklimmen, (i) Andare da
capocardata, andare da primo, (e)
Puntear
/ guiar, (s) Leda, (pl)
Prowadzic
Ledge
Flat bit on a rock (can be miniature or
gigantic).
(d) Leiste (small) / Absatz (large),
(f) Réglette/vire
("vire" is somewhere
between a microledge and a party
ledge), (nl)
Rand(je), (i) Cengia, (e)
Repisa, (s) Hylla, (pl) Polka
Limestone
Type of rock found in abundance in
southern
France (usually white and
full of pockets and holds).
(d) Kalkstein, (f) Calcaire, (nl)
Kalksteen,
(i) Calcare, (e) Roca calcárea,
(s) Kalksten, (pl) Wapein
Locking biner
Karabiner that can be locked.
(d) Verschlusskarabiner / Schrauber,
(f) Mousqueton
à vis, (nl)
Schroefkarabiner, (i) Moschettone a
ghiera,
(e) Mosquetón de seguro, (s)
Låskarbin / Skruvkarbin
Lock-off
To hold on to the rock with one bent
arm while
using the other arm to
reach up for the next hold or to place
or
clip protection. Lockoffs on small
holds will get you pumped in a hurry.
(d) Blockieren / Fixieren, (f) Bloquer,
(nl)
Blokkeren, (i) Bloccaggio, (e)
Bloquear, (s) Lesa / Binda av
Lowering
To descend something or somebody.
(d) Ablassen, (f) Descendre en
moullinette,
(nl) Zakken/naar beneden
laten, (i) Calare, (e) Bajar /
descender a
alguien, (s) Fira ner
Manky
Term used to describe a fixed bolt that
looks
like it was placed before the
last ice age. Use these bolts at your
own
discretion
(d) Rosthaken, (f) Clou pourri/clou
rouillé
Mantle
Difficult balancing move useful to get
up
on ledges.
(d) (Durch)-stützbewegung, (f)
Rétablissement,
(i) Ristabilimento, (s)
Mantla
Mixed climbing
Climbing with a combination of
different methods
of ascent. e.g mixed
free and aid climbing, mixed rock and
ice
climbing, etc.
Moat
The gap between snow and ice on a rock
wall.
Has posed problems ever
since the middle ages.
Mountain rescue
The people who put their life on the
line
when you screw up badly.
(d) Bergrettung, (f) Secours en
montagne,
(i) Soccorso alpino, (e) Rescate
de montaña, (s) Bergräddning
Munge
The dirt and vegetation that can
sometimes
be found in cracks.
Multi pitch climb
Climb that consists of more than a
single
pitch.
(d) Mehrseillaengentour,(f) Voie de
plusieurs
longeurs, (nl) Klim van
meerdere touwlengtes, (i) Via da piu'
tiri,
(e) Ruta de varios largos, (s) Tur
med flera replängder(?), (pl) Droga
kilku
wyciagowa
Munter hitch
Knot used for belaying (Aka italian
hitch
or friction hitch). The Germans
love this knot (see HMS).
(d) Halbmastwurf, (f) Demi-cabestan,
(nl)
Halve mastworp, (i) Mezzo
barcaiolo, (e-argentina) Nudo dinamico,
(s)
Munterknut
Nailing
An ancient term used to describe
direct-aid
climbing with pitons.
Needle
Rock with a characteristic pointed
shape.
Also known as pinnacle, aiguille,
gendarme, etc.
(d) Nadel / Spitze, (f) Aiguille /
Gendarme,
(i) Guglia / Pinnacolo, (e)
Aguja, (s) Pinnakel
Névé
Consolidated granular snow formed by
repeated
freeze-and-thaw cycles.
Also used to indicate permanent
snowfields.
(f) Névé
Notch
A small col.
Nut
Metal wedge used for protection in
cracks.
(d) Klemmkeil, (f) Coinceur, (nl) Nut ,
(i)
Dado, (e) Nuez, (s) Kil, (pl)
Kosc
Nut tool
Piece of metal that can be used to
remove
stuck nuts or cams
(d) Keilenentferner, (f)
Décoinceur/sardine,
(i) Cavadadi, (e) Sacanueces,
(s) Kilpetare
"Off Belay"
Yelled when the climber no longer
requires
a belay (e.g. because she/he
has reached a stance). Once the belayer
hears
"off belay", he/she
removes the rope from the belay device
and
yells "belay off". In UK,
Australia and New Zealand: "Safe".
(d) "Stand" ("Aussicher"), (f) "Relais"
or
"Vâché", (nl) "Stand", (i) "Posto" /
"Molla", (e) "Libre", (e-argentina)
"autoasegurado",
(s) "Lägg av" / "Ta
hem"
Off width
A climb too wide to jam, too small to
chimney.
And then I've heard of
people who actually like this kind of
climbing.
(d) Schulterriß, (e) Off width
"On Belay ???"
Query to verify if the belayer is ready
to
secure the climber (US only).
(d) "Kann ich kommen?", (f) "Tu me
prends
???", (i) "Sei pronto ???", (e)
"?Subo?" / "?estás listo?", (s)
"Sakring
klar ???"
On-sight flash
Leading a climb with no falls and no
dogging
and without any prior
attempts, watching someone do it or
beta on
how to do the moves.
(f) Enchaîner en tête á
vue, (i) A vista, (e) A vista
Open book
Same as a dihedral or inside corner.
Two panes
of rock join in an acute or
obtuse corner that faces left or right.
Outside corner
Also known as pillar or arete.
(d) Kante, (f) Pilier, (nl) Pijler, (i)
Pilastro
Overhand knot
A simple (but solid) knot in a double
rope.
(d) Sackstich, (i) Nodo delle guide,
(e) Nudo
simple, (s) överhandsknut
Overhand loop
The simplest type of knot possible.
(d) Kreuzschlag, (f) Queue de vache,
(e) Gasa
Overhang
Rock (or ice) that is "more than
vertical".
(d) Ueberhang, (f) Surplomb(=strong
overhang)
or dévers (=slight
overhang), (nl) overhang, (i)
Strapiombo,
(e) Desplome / Extraplomo, (s)
Överhäng, (pl) Przewieszenie
Pass
The lowest passage between two
mountains.
The french - but not just the
french - know this as a col. The
mathematicians
would call this the saddle
point.
(d) Pass, (f) Col, (i) Sella / Colle /
Passo
/ Valico, (e) Collado / puerto, (s)
Pass
Party ledge
A somewhat larger ledge used to rest
(and
party !) during a particularly
hard or long climb. Sometimes used to
refer
to the belay station on a
multipitch climb.
(f) Terrasse ("vire" is a somewhat
narrower
ledge), (i) Terrazza, (nl)
Plateau, (e) Repisa
Pendulum
A swing on the rope, either intentional
to
gain a distant anchor on big wall
climbs or unintentional when falling
during
a traverse with not enough pro
in place.
(d) Pendeln / Pendelquergang, (f)
Pendule,
(i) (Traversata a) pendolo, (e)
Péndulo, (s) Pendeltravers / Pendla
Pig
The haul bag.
(d) Sau
Pillar
Outside corner
(d) Pfeiler, (f) Pilier, (nl) Pijler,
(i)
Pilastro, (e) Pilar, (s) Pelare
Pink point
To red-point a climb where the pro and
runners
have been pre-placed.
(d) Rotpunkt mit eingehängte Schlingen
(Rotkreuz ???)
Pitch
A section of climb between two belays
and
no longer than the length of
one rope (this used to mean 45m,
nowadays
pitches can also be 50 or
even 60m long -- check your topo).
(d) Seillaenge, (f) Longueur, (nl)
Touwlengte,
(i) Tiro, (e) Largo (de
cuerda), (s) Replängd, (pl) Wyciag
Piton
Metal spike hammered into a crack (has
come
in disuse for all but some
special applications) (Aka "peg" in the
UK).
(d) Haken, (f) Piton, (nl) (Mep)haak,
(i)
Chiodo, (e) Pitón / clavo
Pocket
A hold formed by a (small) depression
in the
rock.
(d) Loch/Fingerloch, (nl)
Gat/vingergat, (i)
Buca da dito, (s) Ficka, (pl)
Dziurka
Portaledge
A hanging tent with built in bed used
on big
walls (and big trees).
Pro, Protection
Anchors placed during the climb to
protect
the leader. Beware: even
properly placed pro does not prevent
pregnancy
or the transmission of
STDs.
(d) Sicherungsmittel, (f) Protection,
(nl)
Zekering, (i) Protezione, (e)
Protección / anclaje, (s) Säkring
Prusik
The sliding knot or the method to
ascend a
rope (named after its inventer
Dr. Karl Prusik).
(d) Prusik, (nl) Prusik, (i) Prusik,
(e) Prusik,
(s) Prusik
Pumped
The feeling of overworked muscles. Most
climbers
are familiar with the
forearm pump: too much finger work
causes
the forearms to swell and the
strength to disappear. With a serious
forearm
pump, even holding a glass
of beer can become a serious challenge.
(d) Dicke arme (or any other body
part), (f)
Avoir les bouteilles/Daubé,
(nl) Verzuurd, (i) Acciaiato, (s)
Pumpad
Quickdraw, quick
Short sling with karabiners on either
side.
(d) Expreßschlinge, (f) Dégaine,
(nl) setje, (i) Rinvio / Preparato / sveltina,
(e) cintas express, (s) Expresslinga /
Kortslinga,
(pl) Expres
Rack
The climbing gear carried during an
ascent.
(d) Materialsortiment, (f) Matériel
/ matos, (i) Equipaggiomento /
Assortimento di materiale, (e)
Bandolera /
bandola, (s) Racka / Utrustning,
(pl) Spej
Rad
Not trad. Slang for sport climbing.
Rally, to
To climb exceptionally well, especially
on
normally difficult climbs.
Ramp
An ascending ledge
Rappel, to
Also: to rap. Descending by sliding
down a
rope. Known in Britain (and
Germany) as abseiling.
(d) Abseilen, (f) Descendre en rappel,
(nl)
Afdalen/abseilen (i) Calare (in
corda doppia), (e) Rapelear, (s) Fira
Rating
A number denoting the technical
difficulty
of the climb. See here for more
on ratings and grades.
(d) Schwierigkeitsgrat, (f) Cotation,
(e)
Escala de dificultad
Redpoint
To lead a climb without falling or
dogging
after a number of attempts. This
is different from onsight, where the
climb
is lead without falling or dogging
on its first attempt.
(d) Rotpunkt, (f) Enchaîner, (i)
Arrampicare
in libera, (pl) RP
Resin
An alternative to chalk. Resin (or
"pine tree
resin" to use its full name) is
made from the yucky stuff that sticks
to your
hands when you touch a
pine tree. Because resin is mostly
colorless,
it is preferred to chalk in some
areas. But caution: Don't let the color
fool
you. Resin can do permanent
damage to the rock and in fact is not
allowed
anywhere in the US for that
reason. reason in the US.
(d) Pof, (f) Pof, (i) Resina, (e)
Resina,
(s) Harts
Rib
A slender buttress. Something between a
buttress
and an outside corner.
Ridge
The high divide extending out from a
peak.
Ring
A large (2 inch diameter) ring that is
cemented
in the rock as a bolt. Rings
are very common in Germany and France
and
are excellent for rappelling
and hanging belays.
(d) Ring, (f) Scellement, (nl) Ring,
(i) Anello
da calata, (s) Ringbult, (pl)
Ring
"Rock"
Scream let out to warn people down
below that
a piece of rock has been
overcome by gravity. The loudness,
number
of repitions, and/or panic in
voice with which this word is uttered
is often
an indication of the
seriousness of the rock. In the UK,
you're
more likely to hear "Below",
beware!
(d) "Stein", (f) "Pierre" / "Caillou",
(i)
"Sasso", (e) "Piedra", (s) "Sten"
Roof
Seriously overhanging part in a climb
(more
or less horizontal).
(d) Dach, (f) Toit/Plafond, (nl) Dak,
(i)
Tetto, (e) Techo, (s) tak, (pl) Dach
Rope
Long and round nylon fabrication.
Climbing
ropes are generally between
10 and 11 mm in diameter (with the
exception
of "half ropes" which are
between 8.5 and 9mm in diameter).
(d) Seil, (f) Corde, (nl) Touw, (i)
Corda,
(e) Cuerda, (s) Rep
"Rope"
Should be yelled when a rope is about
to be
thrown to the base of the crag
(though most of the time it seems like
"rope"
is shouted about 1-2 seconds
after the rope is thrown). In the UK,
shout
"Rope below".
(d) "Seil", (f) "Corde", (nl) "Touw",
(i)
"Corda", (e) "Cuerda", (e-argentina)
"va cuerda", (s) "Rep", (pl) "Uwaga
lina"
Route
A certain path up a rock or mountain.
(d) Tour, (f) Voie, (nl) Route, (i)
Via, (e)
Ruta, (s) Led, (pl) Droga
Runner
A loop of tape or webbing either sewn
or tied
(Aka sling).
(d) Schlinge, (f) Sangle, (i) Anello,
(e)
Anilla, (s) Slinga, (pl) Talma ?
Runner
A runner threaded or looped around
chockstones,
flakes, horns or
chickenheads for protection.
(d) Zackenschlinge
Runout
Distance between two elements of pro. A
route
is "runout" when the
distance between those two elements of
pro
becomes uncomfortably long.
(d) Abstand zwischen 2
Sicherungspunkten, (f)
(Une voie est) Engagée,
(i) Via protetta lunga, (e) Ruta poco
protegida
Saddle
A high pass that looks somewhat like
the horsewear.
Not quite as steep as
a col.
"Safe"
The British equivalent of "Off Belay".
(d) "Stand", (f) "Relais" / "Vâché",
(nl) "Stand", (i) "Posto" / "Molla", (e)
"Libre", (s) "Lägg av"
Scrambling
Easy climbing, usually unroped.
(d) Kraxeln, (f) Randonner, (e) Trepar,
(s)
Lätt Klättring
Screamer
A very, very long fall.
(f) Méga-plomb, (i) Mina / Randa
Screamer
Special piece of equipment meant to
reduce
the impact of a screamer (the
fall) on the belay system.
(i) Dissipatore
Scree
Loose rocks and stones that cover the
slope
below a cliff. With every
step, scree slides under your feet.
Second
The climber who follows the leader. See
also
following.
(d) Nachsteiger, (i) Secondo, (e)
Segundo
Send, to
To climb a route with ease. "I'm gonna
send
this route, dude!"
Sewing-machine leg or arm
A leg (or arm) under tension that
suddenly
starts jerking up and down like
a sewing machine. Stretch the muscle,
take
a deep breath, and don't think
of falling... (see also: to Elvis).
(d) Nähmaschine, (s) Symaskin, (pl)
Telegraf
Sharp end
The end of the rope to which the leader
is
attached.
SH** !
Often heard during a fall... (Well
educated
climbers in the UK sometimes
say "sugar" - but only if they're not
in too
much trouble).
(d) Scheisse !, (f) Merde!, (f-c)
"Chite!",
(nl) Shit!, (i) "Merda!", (e)
Mierda!, (s) Djävlar!, (pl) Cholera /
Kurcze / Kurde
Short roping
Technique where both climbers are tied
close
together into the middle of
the rope. The rest of the rope is then
carried
over the shoulders in a coil.
Frequently used for simul-climbing. The
term
(and technique?) is used
frequently in the Canadian Rockies.
Short roping
Belaying technique where the belayer
keeps
the leader under tension in an
attempt reduce the length of a fall.
Tony
Bubb will gladly give you an
exposé on the dangers of this
technique.
Side pull
A hand hold that needs to be held with
a horizontal
(sideways) pull.
(d) Piaz-Griff / Seitgriff, (f) Prise
verticale,
(i) Maniglia rovescia, (s)
Sidotag / Sidogrepp, (pl) Odciag
Sierra wave
A lenticular cloud (quite rare in the
Alps).
Slab
Flat and seemingly featureless, not
quite
vertical piece of rock.
(d) Platte, (f) Dalle, (nl) Plaat, (i)
Lastra
/ Lastrone / Placca, (e) Laja, (s)
Sva / Platta, (pl) pologa plyta
"Slack"
Yelled when the climber needs more rope
(e.g.
to clip into protection).
(d) "Seil", (f) "Mou", (nl) "Touw", (i)
"Corda"
("Lasco"), (e) "Cuerda", (s)
"Slacka", (pl) "Luz"
Slingshot
A toprope setup where the belayer
belays on
the ground (where the
climber starts climbing) and the rope
is pre-clipped
through the anchor at
the top of the climb.
Sloper
Pathetic downward slanting hold.
(Usually
look like buckets from below.)
(d) (Abschüssiger) Aufleger, (f) Prise
fuyante, (i) Appiglio spiovente
Smearing
Foot technique where a big part of the
climbing
shoe is used to generate
as much friction as possible. The
opposite
of edging.
(d) Auf reibung stehen, (f) Adhérence,
(i) Aderenza, (e) Fricción, (s)
Smeara
Soloing
Climbing alone, though not necessarily
without
the protection of a rope
(see also free solo).
(d) Solo klettern, (f) Soloer, (e)
Escalar
en solitario
Sport climbing
Climbing routes of (extreme ?)
gymnastic difficulty
while protection
oneself by clipping copiously numbered
and
generously spaced preplaced
free protection.
(d)Sportklettern, (f) Escalade
sportive, (nl)
Sportklimmen, (i) Arrempicata
sportiva, (e) Escalada deportiva (s)
Sportklättring,
(pl)
Wspinaczka
sportowa
Stem, to
Bridging with the feet between two
holds.
(d) Stemmen, (f) Se mettre en
opposition,
(i) Opposizione, (e) Oposición,
(s) Stämma / Sprajsa
"Stick it"
American slang meaning "hold on" or "go
for
it".
(f) "Allez !", (e) "Asegura"
Sticht plate
A belay device consisting of a plate
with
two slots in it. An original
creation by Franz Sticht.
(d) Sticht Bremse, (f) Plaquette
d'assurance,
(f-c) Plaque-frein, (i)
Piastrina sticht, (e) Placa Sticht, (s)
Stichtbroms
Summit
The top of a mountain or rock.
(d) Gipfel, (f) Sommet, (nl) Top, (i)
Cima,
(e) Cima / cumbre, (s) Topp,
(pl) Szczyt
Summit, to
To reach the summit.
(d) Gipfeln, (e) Encumbrar
"Take"
American monosyllable for "Up Rope".
(d) "Seil ein" / "Zu", (e) "Recupera",
(pl)
"Wybierz"
"Take in"
The British equivalent of "Up Rope".
(d) "Seil ein"/("Zieh an"), (f)
"Avale", (i)
Recupera, (s) "Tag hem", (pl)
"Wybierz"
"Taking in"
Heard often in British crags, meaning
the
climber is "off belay" and about
to pull up the slack between him and
the belayer.
(f) "J'avale"
Talus
Large blocks of rock. A coarse
variation of
scree.
Tarn
A small lake.
10essentials
That part of your climbing gear you
don't
want to leave at home.
"That's me"
Part of the climbing dialogue.
Courtousy call
to the belayer to indicate that
the slack in the rope is all taken up
and
that further pulling is pointless.
(d) "Seil aus", (f) "En bout"/"Bout de
corde"
"Tight"
The British equivalent of "Up rope" ???
(f) "Sec", (f-c) "a sec", (e) "Tensa"
Toe
The bottom of a buttress.
Topo
A short drawing of the route. Good
topos will
allow you to spot the line
right away, show the placement of bolts
and
belay stances, indicate where
the crux is and what rating it has.
(f) Topo, (e) Topo
Top-rope
Free climbing a route that has the
safety
rope attached to the top of the
climb (usually one walks to the top to
set
up the top-rope belay).
(d) Toprope / Seil von oben, (f)
Moulinette,
(nl) Toprope, (i) Corda
dall'alto, (e) Yoyo, (s) Topprep, (pl)
Wedka
Threaded overhand
Solid but not failproof knot also known
as
water knot (or ring bend when
used on webbing).
(d) Sackstich in Ringform, (e) Nudo
encontrado
Trad
Traditional climbing, characterized by
the
placing of protection (cams, nuts,
etc.) in cracks and pockets. Trad also
includes
multi-pitch routes often
with long runouts..
(d) Traditionelles, Alpines Klettern,
(f)
Classique, (nl) Alpijns klimmen, (i)
Tradizionale, (e) Escalada tradicional
/clásica
Trad fall
A fall during a trad climb, sometimes
accompanied
by the popping sound
of protection succumbing to the
temptations
of gravity. See also 'crater'
and 'screamer'.
(f) Devissage
Traverse
Horizontal climb.
(d) Quergang, (f) Traversée, (nl)
Traverse,
(i) Traverso, (e)
Travesiacute;a, (s) Travers, (pl)
Trawers
Trucker
Synomym for 'Bomber'. A trustworthy
piece
of pro.
Tunnel
A tunnel through or hourglass shape in
the
rock that allows a runner or
cord to be fed through for protection.
(d) Sanduhr, (f) Lunulle, (i)
Clessidra, (nl)
Zandloper, (e) Túnel
Undercling
A hold that would be a perfect bucket
if gravity
were upside down. As it
is, underclings are usually awkward
holds
that require lieback type moves.
(d) Untergriff, (f) Inversée, (nl)
Ondergreep, (i) Presa rovescia, (e)
Undercling, (e-argentina) Toma
invertida,
(pl) podchwyt
"Up Rope"
Yelled by the leader or the follower
when
she/he wants a tighter belay. (In
UK: "Take in" or "Tight" or even "Watch
me").
(d) "Seil ein", (f) "Sec" / "Avale",
(nl)
"Blok", (i) "Recupera", (e) "Tensa",
(s) "Tag hem"
Verglas
Thin water ice on rock.
(f) Verglas
"Watch me"
Call to indicate the climber is about
to do
something stupid -- like fall.
(d) "Pass auf", (f) "Fais gaffe", (nl)
"Let
op", (i)"Occhio" / "Guardami
bene" / "Tiemmi tirato", (e) "Cuídame",
(s) "Beredd?", (pl)
Water ice
Ice formed directly from frozen water.
Water
ice is clear and brittle and
contains few air bubbles. Sometimes
water
is even flowing around the ice.
Can be found in the couloirs of the
High Sierra
in autumn (and in many
other places).
Water knot
See tape knot.
(d) Bandschlingenknoten, (e) Nudo
encontrado,
(s) Vattenknop
Webbing (tubular)
Flat and strong strip of nylon, that is
hollow
in the inside.
(d) Schlauchband , (f) Sangle
(tubulaire),
(nl) Schlinges, (i) Fetuccia
tubolare, (e) Cinta tubular, (s)
Tubband
Webbing (loop of)
A runner made of webbing.
(d) Bandschlinge, (f) Sangle (anneau
de),
(i) Anello di cordin / Anello di
fettucia, (e) Anilla, (s) Slinga
Whipper
A very long fall.
White ice
Ice with lots of air bubbles that forms
from
melted-and-frozen snow. Good
climbing stuff.
Woodie
A homemade climbing wall.
(f) Pan
Yabo
As in 'yabo start'. A 'sit start'
????????
(I need some help on this one)
YDS
Yosemite Decimal System. The
North-American
rating system.
Zipper
A fall where the protection pulls out
one
after the other as the leader
succumbs to gravity. Often ends with a
grounder
(or a cardiac arrest).
(d)
Rei&germandbls;verschlu&germandbls;sturz
Z-Pulley System
Complicated rope setup that allows you
to
hoist heavy weights with
relatively little force. Excellent for
recueing
or hauling bags.
(d) Flaschenzug, (f) Palan